Traditional Tuscan Sangiovese, of which this is an archetypal example, is a push-pull of black cherry fruit and savory, smoky underbrush, with enough acidity to cut through the fat of a bistecca like the proverbial knife through butter. It will age like a champ, too, as this legendary estate has proved vintage after vintage. And, as “reference-point” wines go, you won’t find a better value!